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Concrete Estimating List -
Initial Service / Work Set Up / Travel $ 65.00
Remove section of sidewalk and replace (average block 38" X 38") - ea. $340.00
New Sidewalk, grade, form, pour w/crushed stone base 4ft. wide - per linear ft. - $60.00
Form out and pour new 4" thick concrete pad (patio or shed) - per sq ft. - $6.25
Form out and pour concrete steps - per sq ft. - $120.00
Hand-dig costs added to all concrete work if needed - per yard - $120.00
Construction Removal, load and haul away all debris - per yard - $60.00
Flat-Work, pour new basement or garage - per sq ft. - $60.00
Footings, pour foundation footing for new construction - per sq ft. - $ 50.00
Limited Access, concrete truck unable to deliver to construction area (assessment at site) $
Stone, Fill stones for concrete base - per yard - $60.00
Rebar, re-enforcing bars added for where needed - per ft. - $8.00
Rebar, custom bends required for special concrete installations - per ft. - $20.00
Sono-Tube, special forms required for specific installations - per yard - $400.00
Repairs, concrete steps, sidewalks - (assessment at site) $
Repairs, patch cracks and holes, foundation walls - (assessment at site) $
Insulation for concrete - per sq ft. $25.00
Acid Stained Concrete - per sq ft. $75.00
Concrete overlays - per sq ft. - $55.00
Concrete Polishing (high gloss) - per sq ft. - $15.00
Concrete Dyes - additional per sq ft. - $15.00
Concrete Engraving and Stenciling - (assessment at site) $
Concrete Re-surfacing - per sq ft. - $90.00
Stamped Concrete - additional per sq ft. $30.00
Concrete Driveway - per sq ft. - $60.00
Concrete Countertops - (assessment at site) - $
Concrete Pool Decks - per sq ft. $75.00
Foundation Waterproofing - (assessment at site) $
Concrete for Radiant Floor Heating - per sq ft. - $75.00
Concrete Fireplace Hearths - per sq ft. - $180.00
Concrete Retaining Walls - per sq ft. - $100.00
Concrete Handicap Ramps - per sq ft. - $100.00
Electric Snow-Melt for Concrete - (assessment at site) - $
Concrete Pavers includes base and walk - per sq ft. - $150.00
Contractors Solutions Inc. - Price Information for Concrete
A Pricing Guide to estimate the approximate cost of concrete work for property improvements.
Basic materials are included in these costs but special purchases are not. All costs must be confirmed by email to a staff
member of Contractors Solutions Inc.
Important Note: The prices listed below are "industry averaged" and do not represent
the prices or costs of any particular company affiliated with Contractors Solutions Inc.
4/09 4 yards of 3500 concrete delivered $550.00
Concrete Industry Glossary of Terms|
|Abrasion: The process of wearing down or rubbing away by means of friction.|
|Active Zone: The depth of seasonal soil moisture variation. Sometimes referred to as the zone of seasonal fluctuations.|
|Adhesion: A property of soil which causes the particles to stick together.|
|Aggregate: Stone or gravel that was crushed and screened to various sizes for use in concrete, asphalt or road surfaces.|
|Apron: A common name for the entrance of a driveway.|
|Backfill: Refilling an excavation.|
|Bands: Bands can be any type of decorative concrete: stamped, exposed aggregate, colored concrete, salt finish, etc.
Bands look best when contrasted against a different "field" of decorative concrete.|
|Bank: A mass of soil rising above an average level. Generally, any soil which is to be dug from its natural position.|
|Bank Gravel: A natural mixture of cobbles, gravel, sand and fines.|
|Bank Yards: Soil or rock measured in its original position before digging.|
|Base: The course or layer of materials on which the actual pavement is placed. It may be of different types of
materials ranging from selected soils to crushed stone or gravel.|
|Berm: An artificial ridge of earth, generally side-slopes of a roadbed.|
|Binder: Materials which fill voids or hold gravel together when dry.|
|Borrow Pit: An excavation from which fill material is taken.|
|Broom Finishes: Can be "light" or "coarse" depending on the bristles of the broom you choose.
This is not a fancy finish but provides a non-slip surface. Choose brooms specifically made for this purpose. |
|Capillary: A phenomenon of soil which allows water to be absorbed either upward or laterally.|
|Clay: Material composed and derived from the decomposition of rock which consists of microscopic particles.|
|Clean Fill: Free of foreign material; in reference to sand or gravel, lack of a binder.|
|Colored Concrete: Various manufacturers make colors that can be placed "integral" to the mix
or "dry shake" which is dusted on.|
|Compacted Yards: Measurement of soil or rock after it is placed and compacted in a fill.|
|Compressibility: A property of soil which permits deformation when subjected to a load.|
|Core Drill: A cylindrical cut and core removed by a rotary drill and bit.|
|Crown: The elevation of any surface at its edges, to encourage drainage.|
|Datum: Any level surface taken as a plane of reference from which to measure elevations.|
|Density: The ratio of weight of a substance to its volume.|
|Dewatering: The act of removing water.|
|Embankment: A fill with a top higher than the adjoining natural surface.|
|Elevations: Measurements taken by instruments (usually optical) to establish grades.|
|Exposed Aggregate: Colorful rocks are embedded in the concrete. When the top layer of
cement paste is washed off either chemically, with water pressure, or sandblasted-the rocks show through.
The rocks can be either "seeded" to the top of the concrete or in the entire mix.|
|Fields: Larger areas of flatwork that go inside the "bands". If there are no bands each section of the
flatwork may be considered a field. The fields may all have the same decorative flatwork finish or be different in an alternating pattern.|
|Fines: Clay or silt particles in soil.|
|Finish Grade: The final grade required by specifications.|
|Floating: Floating removes humps (high spots) and fills in valleys (low spots). It also
compacts the concrete by embedding large aggregate just beneath the surface and consolidating mortar at the surface in preparation
for other finishing operations.|
|Float and Trowel Textures: Patterns can be made on the concrete, such as swirls, or different size arcs.
The texture created can be coarse, medium, or smooth depending on the tool used to impart the pattern. Wood floats create
coarser textures. Aluminum floats or steel trowels create medium or smooth finishes.|
|Footing: The first and deepest portion of any foundation.|
|Form: The custom built area made ready for a concrete pour.|
|French Drain: A perforated pipe installed in a cut to intercept and divert the underground water.
The cut is below the level of the intruding water, and it is graded to drain the accumulated water away from the site.
Sometimes a catch basin and discharge pump are required if a natural grade does not exist.|
|Grade: Usually the surface elevation of the ground at points where it meets a structure.
Also, surface slope.|
|Granular Material: A sandy type of soil with particles that are coarser than cohesive material and do not stick to each other.|
|Gravel: A cohesion less aggregate of rock fragments with varying dimensions of 3.0 to .08 inches.|
|Gumbo: Material in the plastic state identified by a soapy or waxy appearance.|
|Humus: Organic material formed by the decomposition of vegetation.|
|Impervious: Resistant to movement or seepage of water.|
|In Situ: Natural undisturbed soil in place.|
|Lift: A layer of fill as spread on compacted.|
|Optimum Moisture Content: That percent of moisture at which the greatest density of a soil can be obtained through compaction.|
|Pass: A working trip or passage of an excavating, grading or compaction machine from point A to point B. (One direction only.)|
|Painted Concrete : Concrete that is well cured can be painted for colorful effects. Painting concrete is almost always done
to existing concrete, after a repair for example, whereas colored concrete is done with freshly placed concrete and specifically for decorative purposes.|
|Permeability: A characteristic of soil which allows water to flow through it because of gravity.|
|Proctor: A method developed by R.R. Proctor for determining the density/moisture relationship in soils.
It is almost universally used to determine the maximum density of any soil so that specifications may be properly prepared for
field construction requirements.|
|Proctor, Modified: A moisture density test of more rigid specifications than Proctor. The basic difference is
the use of heavier weight dropped from a greater distance in laboratory tests.|
|Quicksand: Fine sand or silt that is prevented from settling firmly together by upward movement of underground water.|
|Re-Bar: steel rods used to strengthen concrete.|
|Rock Salt Finish: Water softener salt crystals 1/8" to 3/8" in size are broadcast onto the fresh concrete.
A roller is then used to press the salt crystals into the concrete. The surface is later washed, dissolving the salt and leaving small holes.|
|Sand: A cohesiveness aggregate of round and angular fragments of rock with a particle size between 2.0 and .05 mm.|
|Saw-cutting Concrete: A power concrete saw can cut patterns into the concrete as soon as the concrete has hardened.|
|Scoring Concrete: Decorative lines can be placed in concrete with "groovers." Groovers come in various
depths and widths. For decorative work, the groover must penetrate the concrete at least 1/4". If the groove is also serving as a
control joint, the groove must be 25% the depth of the slab.|
|Settlement: The drop of some portion of the foundation below the original as-built grade.|
|Shearing Resistance: A soil's ability to resist sliding against neighboring soil grains when force is applied.
Internal friction and cohesion determine shear resistance.|
|Shrinkage: Soil volume which is reduced when subjected to moisture; usually occurs in fine grain soils.|
|Sono-Tube: A cylindrical concrete form with a removable wrapper.|
|Silt: Soil material composed of particles between .005 and .05 mm in diameter.|
|Stabilize: To make soil form and prevent it from moving.|
|Stained Concrete: Existing concrete can be dressed up by saw-cutting patterns into the concrete and then
staining different sections with concrete stains. Artisans can create variegated looks by blending stain colors on top each other.|
|Stamped Concrete: Concrete can be stamped to look like brick, cobblestone, slate, and a wide variety of
other patterns. When combined with colored concrete the results can be fabulous.|
|Sub-base: The layer of material placed to furnish strength to the base of a road.|
|Sub grade: The surface produced by grading native earth, or cheap imported materials which serve as a
base for more expensive paving.|
|Toppings: Decorative flatwork can be produced with epoxy or another type of thin coating over
existing concrete. Surface preparation and getting a good bond is critical in this procedure.|
|Travertine Finishes: Often called Keystone. The concrete has a knock down finish with a smooth surface
at its highest points, but rough in the low area. This is often used in hotter climates on pool decks and other surfaces desired
to be cooler to the feet.|
|Vibratory (Force): A mechanism, usually engine-driven, to create the vibration needed to fill voids
after concrete has been poured.|
|Water Table: The upper surface of water saturation in permeable soil or rock.|
|Wire Mesh: Sheets of heavy gauge wire network used to strengthen concrete, usually attached to Re-Bars.|
Concrete & Asphalt
Concrete paving, excavation,
asphalt paving, landscape pavers, service/repair, restoration, patio bricks,
patching, concrete maintenance & repairs, asphalt driveways.
Concrete Problems, Maintenance & Repairs, Patching Holes,
Patio Bricks and Asphalt.
Concrete is one of the most durable building materials. Concrete is normally the
first step at the beginning of any building project, so a level surface is always important. Concrete has a wide variety of purposes,
and comes in a variety of mixtures to suit. Used correctly, concrete will last just about forever. It's cost effective for almost
any situation, can be shaped in almost any form, can be painted or textured to create almost any appearance, and can hold firm
almost any object. Concrete work does take a lot of experience, make no mistake about it. But, you can learn the basics easily if you
have some trade-sense.
Although concrete seems indestructible, it does need some occasional repair and
maintenance. Problems can come from outside forces, improper finishing techniques, or faulty materials. Whatever the cause, you should
address concrete problems as soon as you notice them so there won't be further damage that will be impossible to fix. The two general
types of concrete problems are structural failure, which is usually caused by outside forces like freezing water, and surface damage,
which is usually caused by improper finishing techniques or badly mixed concrete. In cold climates, it's common to have frost heaving,
which is when the freeze-thaw cycle forces concrete slabs out of the ground. The best solution is to remove the affected sections,
repair the subbase, and pour new sections separated by isolation joints. Sunken concrete is usually caused by erosion of the subbase.
Some structures like sidewalks can be raised to repair the subbase and then relaid. A better solution is to have a contractor raise
the surface by injecting fresh concrete below it. Isolated cracks are common in concrete. Fill small cracks with concrete caulk or
crack-filler, and patch big cracks with a vinyl-reinforced patching product.
Concrete Maintenance & Repairs
Regular cleaning keeps concrete from deteriorating when exposed to oils and deicing salts.
To clean oil stains, dampen sawdust with paint thinner and apply sawdust to the stain. The paint thinner will break apart the stain
and the sawdust will absorb the oil. When you're done, sweep up sawdust with a broom and reapply as needed. To paint concrete surfaces,
use a waterproof concrete paint made to resist chalking and efflorescence (the dusty film caused by mineral leaching). It's sold in
stock colors, but you can order custom colors, too.
In concrete sidewalks and driveways, use concrete repair caulk to fill
the control joints. The caulk keeps water from damaging concrete. To keep aggregate from loosening, apply an exposed-aggregate
sealer about three weeks after you pour new concrete. First, wash the surface thoroughly and let it dry. Pour the sealer into
a roller tray, making a puddle in the corner. Spread the sealer evenly with a paint roller on an extension pole. To protect concrete
that's exposed to traffic or moisture, seal it with a clear concrete sealer, which creates a water-resistant protective layer on the
surface. To improve appearance of a concrete wall, you can use a masonry recoating product. They're applied like paint, and look like
fresh concrete when dry, but have little waterproofing value.
Patching a small hole
Start by cutting around the damaged area with a masonry-grinding disc mounted on a drill
or a cold chisel and a maul. Bevel the cuts about 15 degrees away from the center of the hole. Chisel out any loose material within
the repair area. Using a paintbrush, apply a thin layer of bonding adhesive to the entire patch. Fill the damaged area with a layer of
vinyl-reinforced patching compound, adding no more than ¼" to ½" at a time. Wait about 30 minutes between each layer to let compound dry.
Continue adding ¼" to ½" layers to the hole until it's filled to a level just above the surface of the surrounding area. Use the trowel
to feather the repair area until it's level with the surrounding surface, then let the patching compound cure.
Patching a large hole
Start by marking lines around the damage. Cut on the lines, using a portable circular
saw and a masonry cutting blade. Set the foot of the saw on a thin board to protect it. Bevel the cut away from the damage at a
15 degree angle. Chisel out any remaining concrete in the repair area. Brush a thin layer of bonding adhesive onto the patch.
Mix sand-mix concrete with acrylic concrete fortifier. Trowel it into the hole, adding no more than 2" at a time. Let concrete dry
between layers. Continue adding concrete until it's just above the level of the surrounding area. Smooth and feather with a screed
board and a wood float until it's level with the surrounding surface. Re-create any special finish that was used on the original
surface (such as brooming), and let the concrete patch dry.
Freezing and thawing cycles can cause the ground to shift, heaving the bricks in your
patio. If this happens, you should remove the displaced bricks and create a level surface underneath. These steps can also be used
to fix brick walkways. Remove any bricks that are dislodged or uneven. Add or remove sand as needed so the base is level with the
surrounding sand. Smooth the sand with a garden rake. Water the sand thoroughly,
then pack it down with a hand tamp. Replace the bricks in the patio, laying them tight against each other. Set the bricks in the sand
by tapping them with a rubber mallet. After a few bricks are set, use a long level to check that they are flat and flush with adjoining
bricks. If any changes are needed, just add or remove sand, or tap high bricks deeper into sand and keep checking for level as you
set bricks. Spread a thin layer of sand over the repair area and work it into the joints between bricks, then sweep up loose sand.
Spray the area with water to settle sand in the joints. If needed, spread and pack more sand until all joints are tightly packed.
Asphalt is usually damaged by heavy wear, repeated impacts, and water penetration.
If you find a hole, it's best to attend to it as soon as possible because a single hole can lead to deterioration of the gravel base
and then the asphalt itself. To patch a hole in asphalt, start by cleaning the hole. Use a shop vacuum to get all dirt and debris
from the area. Flush the hole with a hose fitted with a spray nozzle. Then pour asphalt patching material into the hole, slightly
overfilling it. Warm it with a heat gun. Use a trowel to level and smooth the patch. Cram the patching material with a heavy brick
or concrete block until it's firmly packed in the hole and level with surrounding surface.
An easy way to give an old asphalt driveway a fresh, new appearance is
an asphalt sealer. Before sealing driveway, inspect the surface carefully and repair any holes. Then, use an asphalt cleaning product
to clean it and remove any oil and dirt from the surface. If surface isn't heavily soiled, you can use warm water and a mild detergent.
After cleaning, rinse it off with a hose or a power washer. To patch any cracks in the asphalt surface, use a caulk gun and a tube of
asphalt patching compound, slightly overfilling the crack. Spread and smooth patching material with a putty knife. To keep patcher
from sticking to the scraper, dip the scraper in cold water or mineral spirits. Pour a pool of asphalt sealer onto one corner of driveway.
Use a squeegee or a broom to spread it in a thin layer, following manufacturer's instructions, until the whole surface is coated.
Don't apply a layer that's too thick because it won't cure properly. Apply more than one coat if you want a heavier layer of sealer.
Let sealer cure thoroughly before walking or driving on it. Block the entrance while the driveway is drying out.
Do it yourself Concrete, includes information about concrete contractor (s), concrete problems,
concrete maintenance, Concrete Repairs, building materials, screening, textured, maintenance, structural failure, surface damage,
frost heaving, sub-base, isolation joints, sunken concrete, erosion, cracks, concrete caulk, crack-filler, vinyl-reinforced patching,
sidewalks, driveways, control joints, aggregate sealer, aggregate, sealer, patching holes, masonry-grinding disc.
Bevel, Chisel, bonding adhesive, patch, feather, masonry cutting blade, sand-mix concrete, bonding adhesive, screed board,
wood float. Patio Bricks, displaced bricks, brick walkways, hand tamp, level, flush.
Asphalt, water penetration, gravel base, asphalt patching material, asphalt
Philadelphia, PA, Montgomery County, Delaware
grade, waterproofing, retaining walls, handicap ramps, electric snow-melt.
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Concrete Work by Contractors Solutions Inc.
Concrete Contractors. Masonry & General Contractors. Family Owned & Operated, Commercial, Residential, Licensed & Insured.
Construction Work. Digging, trenching work and
demolition. Building Restoration and Concrete work. Scaffolding set up, wheel barreling, mixing the cement. We have Mechanics as well as general laborers, workers and helpers.
Concrete - Heavy Equipment, Philadelphia. Concrete Work for: Mechanical Equipment, Structural Equipment. High Voltage Transformer.
Concrete repair work around live power equipment. Foundations for: Parking Lot Lighting Poles, Air Handler Pad, Standby Generator and HVAC Chiller.
Foundations for Electrical equipment for traffic, and Pole Sign. Special jobs concrete fortifier experts for the big machine.